Kandy, home of Buddha’s tooth

We took off our shoes, put them in a safe box at the entrance and followed the guide into the building complex of the Temple of The Tooth in Kandy. After yesterday’s friendly encounter in Kandy’s city center with the gardener from Helga’s Folly, we hoped for more pleasant interactions with the good-hearted people of Sri Lanka.

The Temple of The Tooth

At the temple gate, several so-called guides, rushed towards us to sell us a tour for the inside of the temple. We usually avoid falling victim to scams in situations like this. Therefore, we asked around for a certified guide. Some tried to take advantage of us by inflating their price, but after negotiating with a few guides, we selected one that seemed genuine.

From the outside, the temple complex didn’t seem majestic. What differentiated it from all other temples we had seen during our road trip across Sri Lanka was the striking red roofs and white stone walls. Adjacent to the temple lies the famous lake of Kandy which once housed the king’s harem.

The tour guide took the lead and started his spiel once we took our first step into the Pallemaluwa on the grand floor. It’s where the daily worshipping rituals take place. It was fascinating to us to see the contrast between the white exterior and the decorated interior with meticulously carved ivory and polished wood that covered most of the ceilings and part of the walls.

Buddha’s Tooth

At first, we wondered if we were going to see a real tooth of Buddha, but none of us asked that question aloud. The guide stopped in front of a shrine and pointed to a red ornamented curtain behind two royal elephant tusks. “This is where the tooth of Buddha is kept. It is only revealed during ceremonies and special events”. He added: “At this time, we won’t be able to see it”. We looked at each other knowing that we didn’t do our homework well. We should have had researched the best time to visit and see the tooth. After researching online, we found out that the tooth is put on display in the Temple of the Tooth for a couple of weeks once or twice every decade. Well, we couldn’t have waited that long, so at least we were lucky to have visited the temple.

Colorful Buddhist flags and their meaning

“Do these colorful flags have a purpose?” I asked. The guide looked at me and said: “Of course, these are the Buddhist Flags. This flag represents the Buddhist faith and peace.“

The Blue light that radiates from the Buddha’s hair symbolizes the spirit of Universal Compassion for all beings. 
The Yellow light that radiates from the Buddha’s epidermis symbolizes the Middle Way which avoids all extremes and brings balance and liberation. 
The Red light that radiates from the Buddha’s flesh symbolizes the blessings that the practice of the Buddha’s Teaching brings. 
The White light that radiates from the Buddha’s bones and teeth symbolizes the purity of the Buddha’s Teaching and the liberation it brings. 
The Orange light that radiates from the Buddha’s palms, heels and lips symbolizes the unshakable Wisdom of the Buddha’s Teaching. 
The Combination Color symbolizes the universality of the Truth of the Buddha’s Teaching. (Source: flags of the world)

The Story of Buddha’s Tooth

From one section to another, the guide kept us engaged with his stories. Some of which we understood while others we missed some essential details due to our guide’s heavy Sri Lankan accent. That didn’t bother us though. Historical facts can be found everywhere. The purpose of our visit was to better understand the culture and interact with locals; which we managed perfectly well. One of the most fascinating stories which he told us was of course about the relic: Buddha’s Tooth.

It all started when the Buddha was cremated in a sandalwood pyre in 543 BC at Kushinagar in North India. One of his disciples retrieved his left canine from the remains. He then gave it to King Brahmadatte as a sign of respect and admiration. The tooth was preserved in Kalinga, India for a period of time. It became a royal possession in Brahmadatte’s country and was kept in the city of Dantapuri. A belief grew that whoever possessed the tooth relic had a divine right to rule that land. In the 4th century AD Princess Hemamali accompanied by her husband smuggled the relic to the island of Sri Lanka on the instruction of her father King Guhasiva after the Hindu armies besieged his kingdom in India.

The temple was originally built under Kandyan kings between 1687 and 1707 but was severely damaged during the 18th-century colonial wars against the Portuguese and Dutch. After the wars, the original wooden structures were restored in stone. In January 1998 Hindu Tamil separatists bombed the temple, damaging its facade and roof. Restoration began immediately afterward. (source: http://daladamaligawa.org)

“The Legend says that one of the invader kings was a Hindu fanatic who ordered the destruction of the relic. At the first hammer blow, the sacred tooth ricocheted towards the sky in a ball of fire that turned the night sky into daylight” the guide looked at us after he finished and smiled. This story was depicted in one of the paintings at the Buddhist museum.

While at the museum, the guide took us from one painting to another telling the story of the famous tooth and stopping at each of the numerous statues of Buddha offered from around the world.

Fascination and Respect

Personally, I enjoyed the tour since it was just as I expected it to be. What fascinated me the most was the number of barefoot worshipers pouring in with colorful flower arrangement in their hands that they deposited in front of the altar to honor the sacred tooth. Hundreds of people come into the temple every day and during the public events, thousands of Buddhists will gather inside the temple and its vicinity in order to celebrate the joyful and colorful ceremonies.

Giving Back to The Community

On our way out, we met a couple of monks holding a bucket of rice and a set of small bowls. When we asked the guide about it, he told us that every day the monks serving the temple use part of the money offered by worshippers and prepare huge quantities of rice. After they offer a bowl to honor the tooth, they keep a small share for themselves and distribute the rest to the poor people outside the temple as a way to give back to their community.

Overall, it was an excellent and inspiring spiritual day.

Our next stop would be at the Royal Botanical Gardens of Kandy. We’d love to hear your thought in the comments.

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Lawayn Next